To make a kilt pattern, take accurate waist, hip, and length measurements, then draft a rectangle for the apron and pleated back. Add apron overlap (around 4–6 inches) and pleats deep enough to show one full sett of the tartan repeat. Mark pleat folds carefully, shape the waistband to your natural waist, and always test-fit in muslin before cutting real tartan.
Step 1: Take Core Measurements
You’ll need:
- Waist: At navel level (where the kilt will sit).
- Hip: Widest part, about 7–8 in (18–20 cm) below waist.
- Length: From waist to mid-knee (front), straight down.
📏 Note: Measure snug but not tight—kilts rely on tailored shaping and strap adjustability.
Step 2: Understand the Layout
A kilt is essentially one long rectangle (about 8 yards for a full traditional kilt).
It includes:
- Front apron: Flat, visible section.
- Under apron: Inner flat section overlapping beneath the front.
- Pleated section: The rest of the cloth folded into knife pleats.
Visualize the pattern as:
| Apron (front) | Pleats x many | Under apron |
Mark apron width at 16–18 inches and leave room for overlap.
Step 3: Mark Pleat Spacing
- Pleat width: Usually ¾–1 inch per pleat.
- Depth: Around 2–2.5 inches, depending on tartan sett size.
- Pleat count: Most kilts have 22–28 pleats.
Each pleat should show one full tartan repeat (“sett”) when folded.
Tip: Use chalk or fabric pencil to mark each pleat fold on the fabric’s reverse side before stitching.
Step 4: Shape the Hip and Waist
Traditional kilts taper slightly between the hips and waist.
- Mark the waistline curve (½–¾ inch rise at the back).
- Reduce pleat depth evenly along the waistline to fit snugly at the natural waist.
This shaping ensures the kilt hangs straight without ballooning at the hips.
Step 5: Add Seam Allowances & Apron Overlap
Add 1 inch seam allowance at each edge.
For apron overlap, extend the front apron 4–6 inches beyond the under apron’s edge.
This prevents gaping when walking or sitting.
Step 6: Test-Fit Before Cutting
Make a mock-up pattern from muslin or cotton first. Check:
- Waist fits snug but comfortable.
- Pleats align symmetrically.
- Length hits mid-knee.
Once satisfied, trace the layout onto your tartan, ensuring the sett runs horizontally and vertically aligned.
Do/Don’t Cheat-Sheet
Do
- Use tartan repeats to plan pleats precisely.
- Cut along weave lines (never diagonally).
- Baste pleats before final stitching to check flow.
Don’t
- Skip test-fitting.
- Forget the apron overlap.
- Let pleats distort the tartan sett.
Related Guides
- How to Sew a Kilt
- How to Measure for a Kilt
- What Fabric Is Best for a Kilt
Conclusion
Creating a kilt pattern combines precision and tradition. Measure carefully, respect the tartan’s geometry, and always test-fit before cutting. Once the pattern is right, sewing becomes straightforward—and your finished kilt will hang perfectly, pleats swinging just as they should.
Build your own Highland look:
Tartan Kilts · Belts & Buckles · Sporrans · Kilt Hose & Flashes