The Scottish kilt began as the belted plaid (féileadh mór) in the 1500s. Over time it evolved into the tailored, pleated knee-length garment we know today, becoming a proud emblem of Scottish culture and Highland identity.
Early Beginnings: The Belted Plaid
The first recognisable ancestor of the kilt was the féileadh mór or “great wrap,” a large, double-width length of wool cloth—often 5 to 6 yards—gathered into pleats and belted around the waist, with the upper half draped over the shoulders.
- Practicality: This single garment served as cloak, blanket, and weather shield for Highlanders.
- Materials: Woven from local wool, it featured early tartan patterns made from natural dyes.
By the late 16th century, travellers’ accounts described Highland men wearing this distinctive belted plaid.
From Great Kilt to Little Kilt
In the early 18th century, the garment streamlined into the féileadh beag or “small kilt.”
- Tailors began sewing permanent pleats into a knee-length section while leaving off the upper drape.
- This made it lighter, more practical for work in mills and ironworks, and closer to today’s kilt.
Industrialist Thomas Rawlinson is often credited with popularising this tailored version around the 1720s in the Highlands, though Highlanders themselves quickly adopted and adapted the style.
Suppression and Survival
After the 1745 Jacobite Rising, the British government passed the Dress Act of 1746, banning tartan and “Highland dress” for civilians in an attempt to curb clan identity.
- Violation carried fines or imprisonment.
- The ban remained until 1782, when Highland Society lobbying helped repeal it.
Ironically, this suppression turned the kilt into a powerful national symbol, and once the ban lifted, it re-emerged with pride.
The Romantic Revival
During the 19th century, Scotland’s image flourished through writers like Sir Walter Scott and the enthusiasm of King George IV, who famously wore a kilt on his 1822 Edinburgh visit.
- This era saw the creation of family or clan tartans, many newly designed, giving kilts a deeper sense of lineage and tradition.
Modern Scottish Kilt
Today the kilt is:
- Ceremonial: Worn at weddings, ceilidhs, Highland games, and official events.
- Military: Regimental kilts remain part of Scottish and Commonwealth dress uniforms.
- Fashion: Contemporary designers experiment with fabrics, colours, and utility kilts.
Despite evolving tastes, the kilt continues to represent Scottish heritage, resilience, and pride, linking modern wearers to centuries of Highland history.
odern Scottish Kilt
From a versatile 16th-century wrap to a tailored national emblem, the Scottish kilt tells a story of practicality, suppression, and cultural pride. Whether donned for a wedding, parade, or Highland games, it remains a living symbol of Scotland’s enduring spirit.